A Taste of Holy Land, Olive Oil

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Hannah Koury picking olives for A Taste of the Holy Land olive oil

What do a Palestinian olive oil producer, a former marine, and a 17-year veteran of the Emery, Wisconsin police department have in common? These are three of the hats worn by Abe Saleh, vendor of A Taste of Holy Land olive oil.

When I received an email a few months ago, introducing his olive oil to the Wedge, I thought, "Hmm, I am not quite sure we need another olive oil."

Being a rare breed of gentle salesman, Abe did nothing to convince me otherwise, beyond simply telling me about the olive oil, which is produced in Ramallah, the West Bank of Palestine. But as I tasted a sample of his product, listened to him speak, and thought about the work he was doing, it seemed incredibly important to support this man and carry this olive oil. To know that there are folks still intent on nurturing the earth and one another in a land torn apart by political and religious wars is nothing short of a miracle in my book.

Sit back, relax, and let me tell you this story.

Abe was born in Kuwait, but in 1967 moved to the West Bank with his family. During the Six-Day War, they left to come to the States, landing in Boston, where Abe lived for the next nine years. He returned to Palestine in 1976 and stayed until 1984. During this time Abe, while going to school, garnered hands-on experience working with his family in the olive groves, as their ancestors had done for the past 500 years.


Abe Saleh's sister, Saheer Koury, sorting olives
While visiting Ramallah in 2004 to attend his father's funeral, Abe was shocked to see the conditions of the territory: the poverty, the lack of infrastructure, the lack of employment, the lack of basic goods and services. As he thought about how to help, he spoke to a cousin who works with the Palestinian Fair Trade Association. His cousin mentioned their involvement with families who worked the olive groves. Abe's entry into olive oil distribution was buying 4-5 liters to give away to friends upon his return to the States. They raved about it, and the wheels started turning.

Now, in 2007, it is a collaborative venture involving several organizations. The Palestinian Fair Trade Association makes producing oil easier and more profitable for the families who supply the raw product. Prices are agreed upon together with the Palestinian Agriculture Relief Committee. Additionally, Al-Reef Real Estate Company and the Canaan Oil Company are partners, too; they contract with three mills to grind the olives brought in by families of multiple villages.

Abe tells of the backbreaking work of harvesting the olives. During September and October, villages are empty from 4 a.m. to 6 p.m. as whole families go out to help. They pack a lunch and a supper and walk to the orchards. The olives are handpicked and dropped onto tarps laid under the trees. Then they are sorted and transported by mule to the mill. Olives not up to food oil quality are used for fuel for stoves and lamps. Some are also used in the production of soap.


Olives drying

Our particular olive oil, "A Taste of the Holy Land," is made from unsprayed, tree-ripened olives, stone-crushed and cool-pressed through an all-natural process used for centuries. The rich taste and color of the unblended oil reflect this long tradition. The method of extraction is virtually the same as it has been for thousands of years, with a few technological advancements to ensure compliance with today's food safety standards.

Production begins with giant stones weighing several tons, which crush the olives and pits into a mash. Special compressors are then used to extract the oil from the fruit mash. This "home-brewed" oil is filtered at low temperatures that retain its pure, rich flavor and peppery bite. Traditionally, Palestinian olive oil was often cloudy with actual pieces of olive leaves and fruit. Improved filtering techniques have removed these bits and pieces while still preserving the phytonutrients within.

The farmers with whom Abe works have never used pesticides or chemicals on their trees or in their orchards, and no solvents, bleaches, or dyes are used in the manufacturing process. Unlike many mass-produced olive oils, this one is not derived from plantation trees. In fact, the trees are some of the oldest in the world. Orchards are located in the wild and grow naturally. Rain and drought affect the taste of the oil from year to year, harvest to harvest. In this way, as with a good wine or a single-estate tea, you can literally experience how the wind, soil, and rain contribute to the taste and quality of the "fruits of the earth."

"A Taste of the Holy Land" olive oil is certified organic by the Center of Organic Agriculture in Egypt, which represents the Demeter label in the Middle East. Al-Reef Real Estate in Ramallah is registered with the FDA in Washington D.C. This oil is certified fair trade by the Fair Trade Federation, also in Washington.

Most Palestinian olive oil is exported to Eastern Europe. Through the gentle endeavors of Abe Saleh, we are indeed lucky to have it reach our shores. When you buy "A Taste of the Holy Land," you are not simply buying a superior olive oil. You are also investing in and enhancing the quality of life for Palestinian farmers and their families. By contributing to the stabilization of the Palestinian economy, you are helping bring much-needed and much-desired peace to the Holy Land.

This article written in cooperation between Fern Weiss, a Jew, and Abe Saleh, a Palestinian. You see, it can happen! Please join us, and enjoy!

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