Cooking Greens for a "Down Home" Celebration

By Wendy Gordon

Greens (mustard, turnip, collards, chard) have long held a down-home reputation. They're a Southern treat, cooked until deeply tender, rich with pork fat. Yes, they taste good that way. But in the past couple years they've risen in culinary stature, and it's been a pleasure to see them on the menu in fine restaurants. In their gourmet incarnation, they're cooked with way less fat and for a lot shorter time, retaining their bright green color and crunchy texture. A world of flavors complement the distinct personality of greens.

People are also recognizing the nutritional contribution of greens. Their vibrant color is a sign that they are rich in vitamins A and C, and perhaps other antioxidant compounds. Their high levels of calcium and iron make greens a good choice for people who do not eat red meat or dairy. And of course, they are an excellent source of fiber.

Here's a great basic recipe for greens. It works well with any greens, but my personal favorite is broccoli raab, a leafier sister of broccoli, with a taste lying somewhere between conventional broccoli and spinach.

Italian Sauteed Greens

• 2 pounds greens
• 4 quarts water
• salt
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 hot pepper, chopped

1. Rinse the greens well. This may take more than one rinsing to remove all grit.
2. Meanwhile, bring the water to boil in a large pot. Drop in the greens and cook until tender (about 3 minutes) Drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking process.
3. Heat olive oil in saucepan until sizzling. Add garlic. Add the greens and hot pepper, and saute briefly. Add salt to taste.

This soup has an amazingly clear and fresh taste, both satisfying and nourishing. It's extremely simple to make, too.

Greens, Sweet Potato, and Chicken Soup

• 2T chopped fresh ginger
• 2 T grated orange zest
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 medium or 1 very large sweet potato, peeled and diced
• 1 bunch collard greens, chopped
• 1 bunch mustard greens, chopped
• 4 quarts chicken broth (I like the organic kind in the aseptic containers)
• 2 large chicken breasts or 3 thighs, skinned and diced
• 1 28 oz can fire-roasted tomatoes
• hot sauce, salt, and pepper to taste

1. In a large pot, simmer ginger, orange zest and garlic in chicken broth for 15 minutes.
2. Add sweet potatoes and cook until tender.
3. Add chicken, tomatoes and greens and cook 15 more minutes.
4. Season to taste with hot sauce, salt, and pepper.

Here we go with sauteed greens again, but this time with a Sicilian or Moroccan touch.

Citrus Wilted Greens

• 2 T olive oil
• 3 T blood orange olive oil (available at specialty stores - if you can't locate it, substitute high quality extra virgin olive oil)
• 1 large red onion, sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 bunch chard or collard greens, chopped
• 2 T balsamic vinegar
• 2 oranges peeled and chopped

1. Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until caramelized (this may take at least 10 minutes).
2. Add the garlic and saute for about 1-2 minutes. Add the greens and allow to wilt, stirring occasionally.
3. Remove from heat and drizzle with blood orange olive oil and balsamic vinegar and toss in oranges. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Wendy Gordon is a freelance writer living in Portland, Oregon with her husband and four children. She has a Master's degree in Clinical Nutrition from the University of Chicago and is an avid organic gardener and cook.