Professor Produce

Could you write about the Nightshade family? I heard that nightshades are toxic, yet some people consume a lot of these (like tomatoes) so it seems like they must be safe.

August for me is a time of romantic excess - the lush and wavering heat, the close, humid air, the fireworks display of wildflowers alongside every road. There is a hint of the impending fall, as the natural course of things tilts our flourishing harvest into the slow, sure decline of decay. Nothing exemplifies this heady season of decadence better than that most romantic faction of the plant kingdom: the mysterious, controversial Nightshade family. Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and potatoes comprise the familiar edible fruits of this family that you probably know and consume to some degree.

With a history worthy of a pulp fiction novel, Nightshades have been accused of everything over time from being outright deadly (and indeed, some varieties are) to causing leprosy, inducing insanity and being an over-stimulating aphrodisiac. Technically classified under the plant family "Solanaceae," the origin of the term "Nightshade," according to nutritional researcher, author, and Cornell University instructor, Norman F. Childers in his book The Nightshades and Health, is not clear. He explains that old English writings referred to these plants as Nightshades because of their "evil and loving" nature of the night. Certainly humans have always been suspicious of the nocturnal nature of certain organisms (see owl, wolf, spider, et al.). A plant which does its heartiest growing by cover of night might seem somewhat menacing, or at the least, divergent from our circadian rhythms.

Aside from that relatively benign prejudice, this family does have some potentially sinister relatives. Tobacco, Belladonna and Jimson Weed belong to the Nightshade family, and have been used for a variety of medicinal and shamanistic purposes over the course of time. Tobacco's toxic effects are well-known, but Belladonna, or "deadly nightshade," is a familiar woodland plant that is extremely toxic and will cause violent reactions in the body if eaten, up to and including death. Jimson Weed, also called "Datura," is a hallucinogenic flowering plant that has been used by shamans in indigenous cultures to induce visions, although it is extremely toxic and has killed many who have sought to use it recreationally. You should never consume any wild variety of Nightshade, even if it resembles their more edible cousins, as it will land you in the hospital or worse.

For that matter, you should never consume any green portion of an edible Nightshade either. Saturated with the toxin Solanine, green leafy parts of eggplants, peppers, potatoes and tomatoes have caused serious illness and even death when consumed in quantity. Likewise, avoid raw green tomatoes, potatoes that have been exposed to too much light (you can tell because they develop a green hue), and limit your intake of the unripe, green pepper. These will not kill you, but they can make your digestion quite unstable. Solanine also strip-mines your bones of calcium and can aggravate arthritic conditions in those prone to inflammation of this kind.

But I did say romantic, didn't I? Because for all these reasons and more, it is easy to see why the apprehension matches the allure of these beautiful, intense plants. Sometimes the best sensual experiences in life come imbued with a sense of risk, and although there is no risk in eating these fruits in moderation, they do grow from potentially poisonous stalks. To this end, what better symbolizes the passionate nature of late summer than the full-blown ripe heirloom tomato, exotically colored, musky, and heavy with sweet, tangy juice? Or how about the fecund swell of a deep purple eggplant, shiny as patent leather, full of meaty, rich flesh? Nightshades offer some of our finest seasonal food opportunities, and for the sake of all five senses, must be considered healthy foods.

Packed with actual nutrition (not just emotional sustenance), tomatoes and peppers are good sources of Vitamins A and C, have huge amounts of potassium and trace minerals and work to stimulate the detoxifying action of your liver. Likewise, potatoes are much better for you than you might think, provided you're not consuming them deep fried in fat. With high mineral content, including levels of potassium that are especially beneficial for those who consume too much salt, potatoes give a long lasting, slowrelease of energy from complex carbohydrates. When eaten with their skins, they are also an excellent source of fiber. Eggplant has high levels of bioflavonoids, which help renew our arteries and prevent strokes. They are also soothing to the nervous system and have been linked to cancer prevention.

Beautiful and somewhat mysterious, domesticated Nightshades offer us a safe and luscious opportunity not to be missed. The romance of late summer arrives in her splayed out splendor and unapologetic radiance but once a year, so celebrate it in kind with the ripe, robust fruits she loves best. You just might start a love affair you won't want to quit.