Food Deserts in our Midst: A Historic Opportunity for Change

By JoAnne Berkenkamp, Director, Local Foods, Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy

Have you ever, in a moment of desperation, stopped at a corner convenience store or gas station looking for a quick bite to eat? You probably found rows of microwavable "meals," a cooler packed with 20 ounce bottles of soda and maybe a dreary-looking apple wrapped in cellophane selling for twice the price of a bag of chips.

This grim scenario describes the shopping options for many Minneapolis residents. For those living far from a grocery store, buying fresh produce can involve very long walks with heavy bags or long bus rides with multiple transfers. Imagine doing that in cold weather with small children in tow. Given these challenges, it's no wonder that whole neighborhoods end up relying on convenience stores for a majority of their groceries. Life in such "food deserts" is often long on candy, chips and soda, and short on the fresh produce needed for a healthy, balanced diet.

Recent research has highlighted how living in a food desert influences a community's health. A 2002 study conducted by the Hennepin County Community Health Department found that, compared to the western suburbs, the core region of Minneapolis had a lower concentration of grocery stores and a higher percentage of households with limited transportation options. Not unexpectedly, these realities are often paired with very high rates of obesity and a cluster of chronic diseases for which poor diet is a major risk factor.

Federal nutrition programs like the Women, Infants, and Children (WIC) program exist to supplement the food budgets of low income families, but the WIC program has not enabled participants to purchase a full array of fresh produce. In late 2009, that will change. Thanks to years of advocacy by groups around the nation, fresh produce and other healthful foods are being added to the list of foods that one can purchase with WIC benefits. In Minneapolis, this means that WIC-certified stores will be required to stock an array of fresh fruits and vegetables.

Will this new policy change the tough realities of local food deserts? Only time will tell, but expanding the availability of fresh fruits and vegetables is a good start. At the Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy, a WedgeShare grantee, we are actively working with small stores, produce suppliers and state policymakers to address the challenges that have kept fresh, whole foods out of reach for many low income communities. It's a complicated situation, but the early signs are promising.

Thanks again to all Wedge members for helping us make healthy food a real option for everyone.