Potatoes, in my mind, are the quintessential comfort food. Nothing is quite as soothing as a plate of potatoes (any form), when nights come early and cold winds blow. Thanks to the organic farming industry, we are now seeing a resurgence in potato varieties that had been upstaged by the ubiquitous and often flavorless russet. My personal favorite are Yukon Golds, although there's something to be said for red potatoes and even organic russets. And don't forget the nutritious and delicious sweet potato. Orange sweet potatoes are more flavorful than yams. Keep in mind that organic potatoes do not last nearly as long in the pantry as their conventional cousins, as their skins have not been soaked with fungicide. Buy potatoes in small quantities, store them in a cool dark area, and use them within two weeks. Should the potatoes sprout, they're perfectly safe to eat (cut out the sprouted areas), but compost potatoes that are soft or moldy.

Here are three takes on the potato family, one exotic, the other two variations on traditional favorites.

• 1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed (approximately 3 cups)
• 1 14 oz. can coconut milk
• 1 cup vegetable or chicken broth
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh lemongrass
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
• 1 teaspoon Thai red chile paste
• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
• salt to taste
• 1/3 cup dry roasted peanuts, chopped

Mash garlic, lemongrass, ginger and chile paste together (a mini food processor or mortar and pestle works well).

In a large saucepan, heat sesame oil over medium heat. Add onion and cook until soft. Add paste mixture and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add sweet potatoes, broth, and coconut milk and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat to low and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.

Add salt to taste and garnish with peanuts.

Porcini mushrooms taste meaty and rich in this dish, but you can use regular white ones as well.

11/2 cups sliced mushrooms

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 teaspoon dried sage

4 large baking potatoes

11/2 cups grated cheddar or swiss cheese

Healthy dash of black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Salt to taste

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Bake potatoes until tender (about one hour) and let cool slightly.

Meanwhile, add olive oil to a medium skillet. Add onions, mushrooms, and sage, and cook over medium low heat until tender.

Cut potatoes in half lengthwise. Scoop out pulp, leaving a quarter inch thick shell.

In a food processor (or in a bowl with an electric mixer) combine potato pulp, cheese, and salt and pepper. Stir in mushroom mixture and parsley.

Place potatoes on baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until heated through and light brown and puffy on the top.

This is a more nutritious variation on what is a traditional Hannukah treat but actually a delicious vegetarian entree all year round.

2 large potatoes (Yukon Golds work well here), peeled

2 large carrots, peeled

2 medium zucchini

1 large onion

3 eggs, beaten

1/2 teaspoon salt

dash black pepper

3/4 cup matzoh meal or unbleached white flour

Canola oil for frying

Applesauce and sour cream for garnish

Use the shredding blade of a food processor (you can do this manually, but it takes forever) to grate the potatoes, carrots, zucchini, and onion. In a bowl, mix together the grated vegetables, eggs, salt and pepper. Stir in the matzo meal or flour.

Put 2 tablespoons of oil in a large saucepan and heat at medium-high heat. (If you have a stove top griddle, you can get away with using less fat). Drop two tablespoons of batter at a time onto the pan or griddle. Cook for approximately one and a half minutes per side, adding additional oil as necessary. Drain on paper towels. Serve with sour cream and applesauce. Wendy Gordon is a writer and restaurant reviewer who lives in Portland, Oregon. She has a Masters Degree in Clinical Nutrition from the University of Chicago, and is on the Board of Directors of Food Front Grocery, a co-op in Portland.