Whole Grains are Still the Best!

By Wendy Gordon

The federal government, in its new and improved food pyramid, recommends that Americans eat three servings of whole grains per day. That is going to be a challenge, as the average American currently consumes one serving or less of whole grain goodness. But it is certainly a worthy goal.

The term "whole grain" encompasses numerous grains that have not had their nutrient rich layers refined out of them. These grains include brown rice, barley, quinoa, millet, oats, rye, spelt, teff, and yellow cornmeal. Cereal grains were considered to be instrumental in the development of the world's major civilizations: maize in South and Central America; wheat and barley in the Near East; millet and teff in Africa; and rice in the Far East. Columbus is credited with bringing wheat to the Americas, and it is certainly the most significant grain eaten in the United States. Wheat is one of the oldest known cereal grains. Hard wheats are thought to have evolved about 8000 B.C. from a species known as Triticum that grew wild in the Mediterranean and Near East. Traces of wheat have been found in Egyptian tombs, Etruscan urns, and Hun saddlebags.

Grains consist of three parts: the bran outer layer; the endosperm; and the germ, or embryo. Refining removes both the bran and the germ, leaving only the starchy endosperm. There are reasons for this. The bran contains phenols and tannins that can lend flour a bitter taste (or at least a taste not to everyone's liking), while the germ contains oils that go rancid rapidly. Baked goods made from refined flours have a lighter texture and milder taste. For many centuries, at least in Europe, white bread was the bread of the aristocracy while the whole grain breads were left to the peasants.

Unfortunately, when the bran and germ are removed, they take with them most of the nutrition in the grain. The refining process depletes the grain of vitamin E, vitamin B6, magnesium, manganese, zinc, potassium, copper, pantothenic acid, folate, niacin, iron, thiamin, riboflavin, fiber, protein, and numerous not totally defined antioxidants, lignins, phytophenolic acids, and phytoestrogens. When flour is "enriched" only three of those nutrients-iron, thiamin, and riboflavin-are added back.

Whole grains offer protection against a variety of diseases. Whole grains aid in blood sugar control by slowing digestion, lowering the glycemic load, and slowing the release of insulin. This protects against the development of type 2 (adult onset) diabetes as well as helping all diabetics control their blood sugar levels. Whole grains also protect against heart disease in several ways. The soluble fiber found in whole grains lowers blood lipid levels. Oats got a big burst of publicity for this in the eighties, but all whole grains do essentially the same thing. Antioxidants such as selenium, copper, and manganese, found in whole grains, slow the oxidation of cholesterol. This oxidation may be one of the foundations of the atherosclerotic process. Vitamin E, another potent antioxidant found in the germ, probably exerts the same effect. The fiber in whole grains decreases transit time through the gut and increases stool weight, protecting against constipation, hemorrhoids, and diverticulosis. By decreasing the bowel's exposure to toxic wastes and increasing the immune function of the gut, fiber also probably protects against colon cancer, though this has not been proven in any controlled studies. Whole grains probably protect against other kinds of cancer as well, but again, few dietary studies have been done that specifically isolate whole grains from other factors. Whole grains increase the feeling of satiety and delay hunger, theoretically protecting against obesity.

"Whole grain" has a healthy sound to it which food processors capitalize on. So if you're trying to increase the percentage of whole grains in your diet, it is important to read labels carefully and beware of misleading terms. "100% wheat" tells you there's no rye or corn f lour in there, but note that it says nothing about "whole wheat." "Multigrain" indicates more than one grain is present, but not necessarily whole wheat. "Stone-ground" wheat is ground between two stones instead of being milled by steel wheels. The resulting coarse grind is healthier than more finely milled flour, but again, it is not necessarily whole wheat. Processors use caramel color frequently to impart a whole grain look to whole wheat, rye, and "pumpernickel" breads. Other products use mainly white flour and add a touch of whole grains. Read the ingredient list to make sure the whole grain is listed first.

Once you've ascertained that what you're eating is authentically whole grain, the next step is to train your taste buds to prefer it. I think the best way to do this is to use whole grains where they shine. One of these places is bread. Whole grain breads boast a moistness and heartiness of flavor that puts conventional white bread to shame. If you bake your own bread, try mixing two thirds whole grain flour with one third white. The bread may not rise quite as high as traditional white, but the flavor more than compensates.

Cereals are another great way to increase your whole grain consumption. Many popular cereals like Wheatena, Cheerios, Grape-Nuts, Nutrigrain, Raisin Bran, Wheaties, Shredded Wheat, and most granolas are part or all whole grain. Hot oatmeal is a great winter breakfast and a very palatable whole grain. Food processors have done a great job of marketing ultra sweet processed oatmeal in little packages, but I can make yummy oatmeal from rolled oats in five minutes in the microwave, (or ten minutes on the stove). I grew up eating kasha, or buckwheat cereal, an Eastern European favorite that's another hearty starter on winter mornings.

Experiment with other formulations of wheat. Middle Eastern cultures never had the abundance of fuel that Europeans did, so developed other ways of preparing wheat than grinding it into f lour and baking. Bulgur is whole wheat that is made from wheat berries that have been washed, steamed, dehulled, cracked, and then sifted into various forms. This minimal processing leaves most of the nutrients intact. Bulgur is a practical food that cooks easily and conveniently. Try making a pilaf or tabbouleh salad.

Wheat grass is made from the young wheat plant, cut at about twenty days after sprouting. It has a high concentration of nutrients, similar to that of green leafy vegetables. Some juice bars serve wheat grass drinks, or it can be used in powder form as a seasoning.

Brown rice takes longer to cook than white rice, but is just as easy to prepare and has a lot more flavor, as well as nutritional value. You can substitute brown rice for white most of the time, though paella and risotto still taste best made with conventional Arborio. Barley adds an appetizing heft to soups, and makes an excellent pilaf. Try more exotic grains such as quinoa, millet, and spelt (known in Italy as farro). Couscous comes in a whole grain version that is tasty, but a bit trickier to cook than the more common processed variety. Yellow cornmeal makes delicious cornbread or polenta. Even popcorn counts as a whole grain.

In your enthusiasm, it's OK to remember that refined grains have their place. Some people may like whole grain pasta, but I am not one of them. The tannins that add interesting notes to bread or side dishes taste off here, and the bran interferes with proper pasta texture. Similarly, whole wheat flour works well in certain baked goods, such as quick breads, spice cakes, and most cookies, but it just doesn't cut it in pastries where a light texture and mild flavor are essential. Whole wheat pastry flour is a good compromise for some baked goods, such as cookies and pie crusts.

White whole wheat flour is a new arrival on the scene. Long popular in some areas of Europe and Asia, white wheat appeared in American markets in the late nineties. Most American wheat has a red outer layer (think "amber waves of grain") while white wheat is a naturally occurring albino variety. The advantage of white wheat is that it lacks the tannins and phenols that give whole wheat its signature taste, which some Americans find too bitter (or just too "present"). White whole wheat retains the bran and the germ, and hence most of the nutrients of whole grain flour. Proponents of white wheat would have you believe that it is nutritionally identical to red wheat. Personally, I doubt this, though I have been unable to locate a precise nutritional comparison of the two. While white wheat is no doubt higher in protein, B vitamins, and minerals, it may not contain as many antioxidant phytochemicals as the red variety. Generally, the more intense color a food has, the more phytochemicals it contains. Also, white wheat is more finely ground than red whole wheat (particularly stone ground whole wheat). According to Dr. Andrew Weil, this presents more surface area to digestive enzymes, upping blood sugar more quickly.

Because of these concerns, I would not recommend substituting white wheat indiscriminately for red wheat. But because of its milder taste, it does have a role in introducing new converts to whole grain bread, or as a substitute for refined white flour in pastries.