Ask Professor Produce

I know how to pick pears and apples easily, but when it comes to winter fruit I don't know what is what. Citrus seems hit-or-miss for me, and I just ignore stuff like persimmons or pomegranates because I have no idea what to look for. Any guides for selecting good winter fruit?

One thing I've learned working with produce for many years is that, in the world of the sensual, there is often great overlap. Through handling fruits and vegetables I have learned that natural things, from people to plants, have complexity that almost defies definition. For example, when learning to judge the ripeness of each type of fruit, a person can spend years working with it daily and still continue to learn how to identify new characteristics previously gone unnoticed. There is fragrance, texture, appearance and — in the case of fruits like melons — you can even use acoustics as a ripeness guide. Only after you have used these senses do you get to the "core" of the matter: How does it taste?

We all know what it is like to be moved by something, to have your senses overpowered in such a way that makes you happy to be alive. At least I hope we have all had that experience! Great music and art can provide this, but so can great food. It pays to find out how entertaining and thrilling good quality, healthy food can be because it has been proven time and again that the best way to get people to do something they "should" do (like eat plenty of fresh produce) is to figure out a way to make it pleasurable. There is so much pleasure in perfectly ripened fruit that if it were properly introduced, I think most people would eat more of it.

So here's a rough guide to winter fruit selection. You don't have to memorize it; please remember that many of your produce staff here at the Wedge are working here for a reason — we love to eat good produce and we like to share that passion with you. We're always available for assistance in fruit selection.

Citrus: The rule of thumb for citrus is heavy in the hand for its size, with a flexible (not stiff ) rind. This ensures juiciness (remember water is heavy) and freshness. You do not need to pay attention to color, as organic citrus will sometimes re-green on the tree according to air temperature and sun exposure.

In the case of tiny Mandarin oranges like the popular Satsuma Mandarin, you want to select a fruit that has an almost puffy rind. These are "zipper-skin" fruits which will peel in one piece to reveal a perfect little orange.

When looking for tangerines, the very best ones will usually have a tight, thin and impossible-to-peel skin with a pungent piney fragrance. If you're looking for convenience, settle for something else. Good tangerines will need to be cut into sections with a knife and then peeled or eaten. With some varieties of tangerine, like the Honey or Murcott, look for a tight, thin, super-shiny skin—think of it is as if the fruit is so sugary, it is glazing its own rind.

With grapefruit, oranges and tangelos you follow the heaviness rule — they should be heavier than they look. It is acceptable to pick up one or two fruits in a display and weigh them against each other to determine heft. Avoid grapefruits that have stiff, puffy skins.

When selecting pommelo, the ancient ancestor of grapefruit, it's a good time to follow your nose. These should be strongly scented enough to perfume your kitchen (and a ripe one will). Look for a softening, tacky skin with dents in it — it will be similar to the feel of supple leather. The white pith under the rind on these is very thick, often up to an inch. When the fruit begins to dent easily, that pith is deflating and the fruit inside is getting sweeter and richer. Many people avoid pommelos because they don't know how to pick them, but if you follow my advice you can enjoy one of the finest winter fruits that exist.

Some final notes: Citrus should have some fragrance, and should not be refrigerated. Refrigeration begins a conversion of sugars in oranges and will deaden the flavor of the fruit.

Persimmons: There are two varieties of persimmons,"non-astringent" and "astringent," which ripen differently. Astringent persimmons, like the Hachiya variety we carry at the Wedge, have large amounts of tannic acid when unripe. If you bite into an unripened Hachiya, you will not be able to speak or swallow for several minutes because every last drop of moisture in your mouth will be removed by the fruit (I'd call it a fun prank, but honestly, you wouldn't even want to do it to an enemy). But when these tannins ripen and break down into sugar, watch out! You are dealing with one of the sweetest fruits there is.

Hachiya persimmons are ripe when they seem like a water balloon — the bright orange skin has a translucent appearance, and they are extremely fragile and soft to touch. Fuyu persimmons are of the non-astringent variety, and are edible even when firm. These you should select at about the firmness of a ripe avocado or mango. The fruit should have some give, but still resist pressure. With both kinds of persimmons, look for deep orange coloring. Some black spotting or streaking is common and does not affect the fruit.

Pomegranates: Like other tropical fruits, the uglier the pomegranate, the better. There are differences between organic and conventional fruits — and pomegranates are a good example. Organic pomegranates are much less showy, but no less tasty, than their conventional counterparts. When selecting an organic pomegranate, look for the darkest red colored fruit in the display, as these seem to taste the best. You can disregard other cosmetic attributes, even outer texture, as most pomegranates become as hard and dry as beef jerky on the outside but remain succulent, rich and sweet inside. As they are organic, they are not treated with pesticide, fungicide or post-harvest waxes and shellac the way non-organic ones will be. This is what accounts for the extremely different appearance between the two.

This should give you a good start on winter fruit selection, and over time you will be able to follow your instincts. Pay attention to good fruit when you eat it, and try to remember what its outward characteristics were for next time. Proper selection of fruit should involve your eyes, nose, fingers and ears. When you are successful, your taste buds will thank you.