Recipes - Thrifty, Tasty "amp; Nutritious Meals for the Budget

Rhubarb is usually thought of as a fruit, but it is actually a close relative of garden sorrel, and a vegetable. It was originally cultivated in Asia for medicinal purposes. Not until the eighteenth century was it grown for culinary purposes in Britain and America. Rhubarb is a great plant for home gardeners. It comes up early in the spring (and will overwinter in temperate areas), is easy to grow, and produces for years. It is rich in vitamin C and fiber. One caution: rhubarb leaves are poisonous; cut the stalk off at the base of the leaves and use only the stalks for cooking.

Rhubarb is almost invariably associated with strawberry-rhubarb pie, and understandably so. The tartness of the rhubarb beautifully balances the sweetness of the strawberries. However, I wanted to come up with some different rhubarb ideas. These muffins are great for breakfast.

• 21/2 cups flour
• 1 tsp baking soda
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 11/4 cups packed light brown sugar
• 1 egg
• 1/2 cup melted butter or canola oil
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1 tsp vanilla
• 2 cups finely chopped rhubarb

• 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1 T melted butter
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon

1. In a medium bowl combine flour, baking soda and salt.
2. In another bowl beat the egg, then add brown sugar and whip until well-mixed and light. Stir in the butter, buttermilk, and vanilla.
3. Add the egg mixture to the flour and stir until just blended. Stir in the rhubarb.
4. Spoon into greased or paper lined muffin tins.
5. For topping, combine sugar, butter and cinnamon.
6. Sprinkle topping over muffin batter and bake at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes or until risen and lightly browned.

The following is an interesting (and rare) non-sweet rhubarb option.

• 2 shallots, minced
• 1 T butter
• 11/2 pounds carrots, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 pound rhubarb, cut in 1/2-inch pieces
• 1/2 cup orange juice
• 11/2 cups chicken broth
• 2 cups milk (whole is best, you can get away with 2 percent)
• 1/2 tsp tarragon
• 1/2 tsp thyme
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1/4 cup minced Italian parsley
• sour cream

1. In a large saucepan over medium heat sauté the shallots in butter until browned. Add the carrots and rhubarb and cook 10-12 minutes or until just tender. Add the orange juice, cover, and cook 4-5 minutes more.
2. Puree the carrot and rhubarb in a blender or food processor with the broth. Return to saucepan and combine with the milk. Add tarragon, thyme, salt, and pepper. Heat until hot but not boiling.
3. Serve immediately, garnishing with parsley and sour cream.

Gelato is Italian ice cream. It is no richer than the American version but denser and more intense in flavor. Technically there are three varieties: Sicilian, made with milk and thickened with corn or wheat starch; Tuscan, a milk-based custard; and Northern, a cream-based custard. Granitas, or fruit ices, are also sold as gelato. After a summer in Italy, I can't honestly say I detected any regional differences. But gelato does differ in quality - there's the somewhat boring mass produced kind, and there's the kind that's churned by grandpa every morning in back of the gelateria. That kind has chunks of fresh fruit, slivers of bittersweet chocolate, chopped hazelnuts, even the occasional lemon seed that's slipped its way into the lemon granita. You can make your own fresh gelato at home in an ice cream maker. Simply freezing the mixture will also produce decent results.

• 1 cup minus 1 T granulated sugar
• 1 cup water
• 1 pint fresh strawberries
• 1 T freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 tsp lightly beaten egg white

1. In a small heavy saucepan heat water and sugar over high heat, stirring until sugar is dissolved.
2. Cool syrup.
3. Trim strawberries and purée in food processor or blender until smooth. Transfer 2 cups puree to a bowl (any remainder can be saved for another use) and stir in syrup and lemon juice. Chill mixture up to 1 day.
4. Stir in egg white and freeze in an ice cream maker. Serve immediately or transfer to freezer and serve within 3 hours.

Wendy Gordon is a writer and restaurant reviewer who lives in Portland, Oregon. She has a Masters Degree in Clinical Nutrition from the University of Chicago, and is on the Board of Directors of Food Front Grocery, a co-op in Portland.