Taming the Food Bill

By Wendy Gordon

A few years ago, the governor of Oregon and his wife lived for one week on $42, the state's average allotment for a couple on food stamps. In a well-publicized shopping trip, they purchased instant noodle soup, granola, jelly, 2 cans of beans, 3 boxes of macaroni and cheese, additional macaroni, a package of imitation cheese slices, and a packaged pie crust. The list also included onions, 3 bananas, 2 zucchini, a head of lettuce and a small chicken.

That shopping list indicates significant ignorance of basic cooking skills. It is a shame to waste a limited budget on labor and packaging, and Big Food's advertising budget. I encourage everyone to "get off the grid." By cooking from scratch you also effortlessly sidestep issues like trans fats and contaminated additives.

What is misleading about that famous shopping venture is that an experienced shopper wouldn't start from zero every week. They would have a stockpile of bulk staples and nonperishable items bought on sale (perishables too, if they had a freezer). Bulk whole grains and beans form the basis of an economical diet and avoid the common trap of emphasizing refined carbohydrates that offer little nourishment.

A pound of dried beans cooks up to a week's worth of meals, while a can contains, at most, two cups. Beans can be used in a variety of ways to avoid monotony: in chili, tostadas, burritos and soups. Or take brown rice. Three cups of dry rice cooks up to a huge pot to combine with the beans, stir-fry with tofu and/or a small amount of meat, vegetables or with eggs (in both Mexican and Asian incarnations). Rice provides a base for a curry and is delicious with a little melted cheese. Lentils cook up in under an hour and lend themselves to Mexican, Italian and down-home American cuisine.

Macaroni and cheese does not have to come out of a box! Boil a pound of whole-grain macaroni, drain it and mix in a grated cheese that melts well, like cheddar or jack cheese. Add some milk for smoothness. This recipe makes more and tastes better than the stuff with powdered cheese.

Instead of packaged cereal, combine a half-cup of bulk rolled oats with a scant cup of water and cook for five minutes at half power in the microwave. Mix in some milk, a dash of cinnamon, a little sugar or applesauce and you have a warm bowl of sweet oatmeal for a fraction of the price of one serving of over-processed stuff. Granola is simple to make from scratch, too.

Homemade soup is hugely economical and transforms inexpensive ingredients and leftovers into aromatic and filling nourishment. My son loves my tortilla soup, made from homemade chicken broth, pureed peppers, onions and tomatoes, topped with a little Monterey Jack cheese and a toasted tortilla. The chicken used to make the broth can be reserved for another meal or added to the soup.

Vegetarianism is always a valid option, but a judicious use of meat can liven up beans, grains and soups. Inexpensive cuts yield amazing flavor when cooked properly, which means braising (cooking at relatively low heat in a small amount of liquid until fork-tender). I'm a big fan of pork shoulder, slow-cooked and seasoned with barbecue sauce or a vinegary sauce. Beef short ribs add great flavor to soups and stews. Whole chickens are the most economical food buy, but if you prefer the convenience of parts, legs are usually the least expensive.

Carrots, celery and cabbage are low-priced most of the year. Homemade coleslaw takes ten minutes and is nutritious and cheap. Skip bottled salad dressing altogether. My recipe for vinaigrette is utterly simple: two thirds of a cup of olive oil to one third cup balsamic vinegar, a teaspoon of Dijon mustard and a dash of garlic salt.

Growing your own vegetables requires an initial investment, but is well worth the effort. In northern latitudes crops such as collard greens, mustard greens, sorrel and leaf lettuce produce for months. Herbs thrive in pots and don't even require a garden. A CSA is another option. A share in a Midwestern CSA averages $25-$30 a week.

A common fallacy is that people in these frenzied times are too busy to cook. It's true that people arriving home after a busy workday aren't about to whip up a bean soup or pot roast, but most economical dishes aren't very labor-intensive. They involve throwing a few ingredients together and letting them stew or simmer, which can be done anytime you are home for a few hours. If you have a slow-cooker, you don't even need to be home!