Food of the Season

by Wendy Gordon

Squash is supposedly the gardener's joke: an amazingly prolific crop that generates baseball bat size zucchini overnight. I've had squash years like that, churning out squash pickles, squash soup, and squash chocolate cake, and then donating the excess to our local homeless shelter. But maybe I scorned my blessings, because in the past couple years there has been a curse on my squash crop. They bloom but reproduce most stingily, providing only enough squash for the occasional veggie sauté.

I really like the stuff, so I'll have to head to the grocery store for the rest.

I may have included this recipe in a column several years ago, and if so, please forgive me. This is the best zucchini recipe ever. Even alleged zucchini haters ask for seconds. It makes a great vegetarian entrée or an accompaniment to grilled chicken or fish.

SQUASH CORN CAKES

• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 1/2 tsp baking powder
• 1 T sugar
• 1 cup polenta
• 3/4 tsp salt
• 1/4 cup onion, finely chopped
• 1 egg
• 1 cup milk
• 2 T olive oil
• 1 1/2 cup shredded zucchini or other summer squash
• 2 ears fresh corn kernels, or 1 cup frozen
• 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, minced

1. Stir together flour, baking powder, sugar, polenta and salt. Set aside. In another bowl, combine onion, egg, milk and oil. Mix thoroughly.
2. Add squash, corn and cilantro to the flour mixture, mixing just enough to moisten.
3. Preheat griddle or skillet over medium-high heat. Lightly coat griddle with oil. Ladle batter to form a three-inch circle. Turn cake when bubbly and cook until both sides are golden brown.
4. Serve with salsa and yogurt.

The recipe is somewhat complex, but worth the effort.

SQUASH ENCHILADAS WITH SPICY PEANUT SAUCE

Filling:

• 1 small butternut squash (about 1 lb)
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and diced
• 1/4 lb fresh mushrooms, diced (about 1 1/4 cup)
• 1/2 cup diced onion
• 2 T vegetable oil
• 1/2 cup diced jicama
• 1 small apple, peeled and diced
• 1/4 cup shelled sunflower seeds, toasted
• 1 T white vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
• 2 T cilantro, minced

Spicy peanut sauce:

• 2 cups vegetable broth
• 1/2 tsp sea salt
• 1/2 tsp cumin
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 2 canned chipotle chilis, chopped
• 3 T chili powder
• 1 T canola oil
• 1/2 tsp dried oregano
• 1 T onion, minced
• 1 T all-purpose flour
• 3/4 cup creamy peanut butter
• 8-10 corn tortillas
• 4 oz cheddar cheese, grated
• 4 oz Monterey jack cheese, grated

1. Cut the squash in half and scoop out seeds. Place cut side down in a baking pan with a small amount of water, bake in 400 degrees F oven until tender, about 1 hour (or you can microwave it for 6-8 minutes). When cool enough to handle, scoop cooked squash out of shell and set aside.
2. In a large skillet, sauté carrot, mushrooms, and onion in the oil until the carrot is tender-crisp. Add the squash, jicama, apple, sunflower seeds, vinegar, salt and cilantro. Mix well and remove from heat.
3. To make the sauce, combine broth, salt, cumin, garlic, chilis and chili powder in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil.
4. Meanwhile in a small sauté pan, sauté the oregano and onion in oil. Add flour and cook, stirring for 1 minute.
5. Add onion mixture to chili mixture. Bring to a boil again; remove from heat and strain through sieve. Add peanut butter and stir until well combined.
6. Heat a small amount of oil in a shallow skillet. Dip each tortilla in the oil for a few seconds to soften. Lay softened tortillas on paper towels to drain.
7. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place a spoonful of the squash mixture down the center of each tortilla. Roll up and place seam side down in a lightly oiled 9 x 13 inch baking ban. Pour spicy peanut sauce over rolled tortillas and sprinkle with cheeses. Bake 15-20 minutes or until cheese is melted and enchiladas are hot in the center.

STUFFED KABOCHA SQUASH

Attractive and flavorful, kabocha squashes are my favorite of the winter squashes. You can substitute any medium-sized pumpkin shaped squash, if desired.

• 2 medium size kabocha squash (or 1 really large one)
• 1 T extra virgin olive oil
• 3 T dried currants
• 1 medium onion, minced
• 1/2 cup chicken broth
• 1 tsp curry powder
• 1 tsp minced fresh ginger
• 1/4 tsp each of ground nutmeg, ground cumin and thyme

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Cut top third off of squash. Scoop out seeds and discard. Lay squash (including tops) cut side down in a 10 x 15 inch pan. Cook until tender (approximately 45 minutes).
2. Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a medium saucepan. When oil is hot, add currants and stir until they puff, about 1 minute. Remove from pan with a slotted spoon; reserve.
3. Add onion to pan, adding more oil if necessarily. Cook until translucent. Add broth and spices. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring often, until all the liquid has evaporated.
4. When squash is cool, scoop out flesh. Combine with onion mixture, whirling through blender or food processor if a creamy texture is desired. Mix in the currants.
5. Bake uncovered at 375 degrees F until hot in center.